Dudhsagar – “Zee van melk” (Goa)

Shindu is architect en schrijft voor GOZUIDINDIA blogs over architectuur en reistips.
Taken by surprise on my birthday, when the husbAnd announces to take me to Goa for the weekend, I wondered if this would be another “beach-church-fort-beach” type, like my first Goa visit.
The husbAnd and I started from Pune on a Friday morning to Goa, a 450KM drive. We took the NH48 to Belgaum, and drove through the Bhimgad Wildlife Sanctuary to reach Mollem, Goa. Passing by several villages and lush green landscape, we couldn’t resist but stop by a few waterfalls and streams on the way.
Ik was benieuwd hoe mijn 2-de trip naar Goa (Verjaardagscadeau van mijn echtgenoot) zou verlopen. De trip begon met een rit van 450 km via het Bhimgad Wildreservaat naar Mollem. Onderweg lasten we enkele stops in bij een aantal watervallen en genoten we van het groene landschap.
The Mandovi river between the states of Karnataka and Goa, houses the scenic four tiered waterfalls called the Dudhsagar(Sea of Milk, in Konkani language). This beauty is accessible by train and by foot. Sadly now for enthusiastic trekkers, the trek route through the train tracks is closed. But a true seeker shall always find a way.
The following morning, we reached Kulem(Collem) station and began our walk through the dense forests of the Western Ghats. The aroma of fresh earth, the shade from the foliage of trees, chirping of the birds, the constantly resonating ground-crickets and the noisy river that flows all-along the path, makes it a tropical paradise to walk. Passing by several tunnel-like plant formations and marshy red earth and a few river crossings, we reached the jeep pick-up point.  A bumpy 11KM drive through the tropical wilderness, we reached the watch tower at the base of the falls.
Dudhsagar (zee van melk) is een waterval in de Mandovi rivier op de grens van Karnataka en Goa. Je kunt er normaliter per trein en te voet naar toe. (De wandelroute via ‘t spoor is thans gesloten.)
Wij gaan de volgende morgen vanuit Kulem te voet door het bos op pad. Prachtige vogels, heerlijke geuren, geluiden, planten etc, maken dit tot een prachtige tocht.
Het laatste stuk naar de voet van de waterval, 11 km verderop  gaat weer per jeep.
he hides behind a green screen. The closer I reached, the more she would reveal herself to me. After two river crossings, she stood there, majestically, like a torrent of pouring milk. There is a legend that says the mountain king’s beautiful daughter used to bathe herself in milk from a golden pot, which led to the name of the place. At the base of the falls, we stood spellbound and hypnotised by its beauty. We sat there gazing at the beauty that revealed itself to us. We could see the railway bridge from a distance. I’m definitely going to take a train next time to experience it from a closer distance.
The shutterbug husbAnd began romancing the camera. All I could hear was a series of clicks from his device, as I began to make a million memories through my eyes.
Hoe dichterbij je komt, hoe meer van de schoonheid ontsluierd wordt.
En daar is ze tenslotte dan: Als een toren van uitgeschonken melk.
Een oud verhaal over een plaatselijke prinses die dagelijks baadde in een gouden kuip gevuld met melk was vroeger al snel aanleiding voor de naam van deze hypnotiserende plek.
Ik neem mij voor ooit terug te komen om met de trein die in de verte rijdt die waterval van dichtbij te gaan bekijken.
The next morning before heading go back to the routine of the city, we decided to drive up to Tambdi Surla, to visit the 12th-century Shiva temple. Tucked inside the Western Ghats, at the foot of Anmod, is this humble looking, non-decorative, stone-thatched beauty. It has survived the destruction and invasion due to its remote location inside the forest. A stream of water from Surla river, runs along the temple complex. The mantap (Pillared Hall) is covered by a stone thatch (which is very unusual for a temple). The first rays of the sun falls on a small Linga (Lord Shiva is worshipped in this form). We sat on the base of the pillars and watched the rains. This unusually, unconventional temple has caught my attention for its simplicity and openness.  (I shall write in detail explaining about temple architecture shortly).
I have come to believe over the years, that it is always fun to travel through the roads less taken, and see for yourself how things goes. Sun-kissed, humid salty air brushing through my hair, long walks and all smiles, we returned home.
To the joy of experiences!! Hit the road guys!! Off you go…….with GOZUIDINDIA.
De volgende morgen besloten we nog een bezoek te brengen aan de 12-de eeuwse Shiva tempel in Tambdi Surla.
De oudste tempel in deze regionen, die dankzij z’n geïsoleerde ligging de verwoesting van veel invasies heeft overleefd (Noot Henk .v.d. Vegt: Daarover in een later historische blogs meer uitleg).
De Mantap (hal met pilaren) draagt een stenen dak. (Ongebruikelijk).
Het is een klein complex voor Lord Shiva.
In een later blog zal ik meer uitleg geven over tempel architectuur in z’n algemeen.

Zoals zo vaak; een dergelijke reis, over niet gangbare wegen, waarbij je je eigen weg kiest zijn de mooiste.
Dit is het plezier van de ervaring. “Hit the road guys” Off you go with GOZUIDINDIA.

Travel Tips to Dudhsagar:

  • By Jeep 4×4: Travel to Kulem. Hire a local guide/Jeep/bike that takes you to the base of the falls. Nov-April, there are Govt. operated tours.
  • Places to stay: Mollem (nearest with good accommodation), Panjim (3hr drive)
  • Things to carry: Good pair of walking shoes, raincoat, sun-ban, drinking water and food.
  • Difficulty level: 3/5
Shindu maakte deze trip vanuit haar woonplaats Poona (Pune), maar het is vanuit Goa of vanuit Hubli (Hubbali ook zeer goed te doen).

Shindhu made this trip from her hometown Poona (Pune), but you can do it from Goa or Hubli as well.
GOZUIDINDIA will help you in exploring India with the guided Indian tour packages. Which will help you in discover the beauty of real india.

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